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MOUNTAIN CLIMBING GUIDE

Introduction

Every year thousands of mountain climbers from Mexico and other countries hike to the summit of Iztaccíhuatl. A number of lodges and alpine huts built In natural camping areas by the Grupo de los Cien offer security to hikers, but these shelters are by no means mountain hotels or resorts. If you plan to camp, it's best to bring a tent.

Rescue services are provided at no charge by Socorro Alpino Mexicano (Mexican Alpine Rescue), but volunteer workers gladly accept cash or in-kind contributions such as camping gear.

It's possible to climb Iztaccíhuatl at any time of the year, but the conditions are best in winter. Summiting is not recommended after 1:00 pm because the volcano tends to be covered with afternoon fog, and if you're not familiar with the path, the descent can be both difficult and hazardous.

La Joya in the southern part of the volcano is the most common trailhead because it's easy to get to and you start out from a higher point. The Normal route begins there, also known as the Rodillas (Knees of the reclining lady) or the Arista del Sol (Sun Ridge) route. The lesser known Ayoloco route is highly attractive for relatively experienced mountaineers who are familiar with crampon and rope travel techniques.

For typical mountain climbers who live in the high plains of central Mexico and have their own transportation, the ascent to the summit is a day-hike. Those who get to La Joya at the crack of dawn can reach the summit by noon and descend while there's still sunlight.

Mountaineers with transportation constraints, as well as those who need a longer acclimatization period because of living at lower altitudes, usually make high camp for 1 or 2 nights. Once they reach the summit, however, they descend the same day to La Joya, Amecameca, and Mexico City.

All in all, a mountaineer climbing at a normal pace can reach the Grupo de los Cien Lodge in about 4 hours, and the summit in 3 more. The descent takes about 4 hours. Don't forget to sign in and sign out at the Socorro Alpino rescue station (the yellow box) at La Joya.

On the northwest side, San Rafael is the natural trailhead. Because of starting out at a lower point, hikers normally climb for an entire day before making high camp and then proceed to the summit on the second day. If you have a 4 Wheel Drive (4WD) vehicle and the permits described on the Access page, it's possible to start at a higher elevation and thus reach the high campsites and the summit in one day, but it's important to have previous experience with the local topography if you hope to find your vehicle on the way down.

Very few hikers start out from the state of Puebla and climb directly up the volcano without approaching through La Joya or San Rafael, but there are old routes still used by some traditional mountaineers from that state.

Topography

Topographic maps, INEGI

1:50,000

E14B31 Chalco (optional, useful if approaching from Llano Grande)

E14B32 San Martín Texmelucan (optional)

E14B41 Amecameca

E14B42 Huejotzingo

1:250,000

E14-2 México

ACCESS

Northern Access

San Rafael: Leaving the city on Av. Zaragoza, take the Mexico-Puebla Toll Highway (No. 190). Take the Chalco exit 1 km before the first Pueba toll booth, and pay a small fee. Go straight until the juncture with the Mexico-Cuautla Highway (No. 115), heading towards Cuautla. At Tlalmanalco, there's a small sign signaling the road to San Rafael. Turn left and drive through the center of town. The route isn't obvious, so it's a good idea to ask directions. You'll have to make another right turn that's not well marked. You'll need 4WD on the dirt roads leading up the hill to the old San Rafael paper factory, then on to Llano Grande el Alto. A permit is required, which can be obtained from community officials who manage the communal lands at the Comisariado Ejidal (Calle Zaragoza No. 34) in Tlalmanalco. You may apply for this permit several days ahead of time, but you must show up in person to get it since you will probably be charged a fee based on subjective criteria.

Llano Grande: Leaving the city on Av. Zaragoza, take the Mexico-Puebla Toll Highway (No. 190) and exit at km 5, the highest point of the highway 8 km before the town of Río Frío. Turn right towards Llano Grande, passing under stone arches covered by many food stands. Follow a long dirt road requiring 4WD the rest of the way.

Public transportation from Mexico City:

Buses to Tlalmanalco leave from the TAPO bus station in Mexico City. Buses and collective taxis marked "Los Volcanes" leave from the Candelaria subway station for Tlalmanalco. From there you can take a collective taxi to San Rafael. Or you can take a direct bus to San Rafael outside the Aeropuerto subway station near the Gigante supermarket for around USD $1.50-$2.

>Driving from Puebla:

San Rafael: Take the Puebla-Mexico Toll Highway (No. 190) and at the second toll booth take the road to Chalco. Then follow the directions given above.

Llano Grande: Take the Puebla-México Toll Highway (No. 190) and at km 66, the highest point of the highway, 8 km away from Río Frío, take a dangerous left-hand turn by the stone arches covered with numerous food stands. Then follow a long dirt road requiring 4WD the rest of the way.

Public transportation from Puebla:

You can take a bus to the TAPO station in Mexico City and then proceed to Tlalmanaco. Or you can change buses just beyond the Periférico (Outer Loop) surrounding Mexico City near the Cárcel de Mujeres (Women's Prison) or Acatitla subway station. It's not a good idea to change buses at the toll booth on the highway because it's not a designated bus stop.

Southern Access

Driving from Mexico City:

Paso de Cortés/La Joya: Leaving the city on Av. Zaragoza, take the Mexico-Puebla Toll Highway (No. 190). Take the Chalco exit, 1 km before the first Pueba toll booth and pay a small fee. Go straight until the juncture with the Mexico-Cuautla Highway (No. 115), heading towards Cuautla. Amecameca is located at km 22 on this highway. You can drive through the town and go 2 km further on the same highway before turning left on the road up to the Paso de Cortés. Or you can take the bypass that ends exactly where the Paso de Cortés Highway starts. Just beyond San Pedro Nexapa the road turns upward. The asphalt highway ends at the Paso de Cortés, where you turn left on an unpaved road that takes you up to the Altzomoni Lodge and to La Joya.

Public Transportation from Mexico City:

Buses for Amecameca leave from the TAPO bus station in Mexico City approximately every 15 minutes. You can also take buses or collective taxis at the Candelaria and Aeropuerto subway stations. At Amecameca, you can hire a taxi for a special trip to La Joya at an approximate cost of US$ 20-35 per trip. Depending on the vehicle, it may hold as many as 9 people. The taxi drivers are very informal about return plans, and may not appear on the day or hour agreed upon. It may be possible to avoid such a situation by offering to pay the complete fare upon returning. It's not a critical problem unless a large group is involved because it's always possible to find cars returning with space for one or two people.

Driving from Puebla:

Paso de Cortés/La Joya: From Cholula, take the highway to San Buenaventura Nealtican and continue on to San Nicolás de los Ranchos and the Paso de Cortés. 4WD is highly recommended because this highway is mainly unpaved.

Public Transportation from Puebla:

You can take a bus to the TAPO station in Mexico City and then proceed to Amecameca. Or you can change buses just beyond the Periférico (Outer Loop) surrounding Mexico City near the Cárcel de Mujeres (Women's Prison) or Acatitla subway station. It's not a good idea to change buses at the toll booth on the highway because it's not a designated bus stop.

INFORMATION FOR PERSONS INTERESTED IN CLIMBING IZTACCÍHUATL

With the authorization and courtesy of Rodulfo Araujo Matus. rodulfo @ xpmexico.com Files with information and recommendations on climbing routes:

Mountain Climbing Guide

Rock Climbing Guide